http://hdl.handle.net/10397/67 Search the Channel search http://repository.lib.polyu.edu.hk/jspui/simple-search http://hdl.handle.net/10397/5716 Title: Green retailing : construct measurement and its antecedent-adoption-performance relationships<br/><br/>Authors: Tang, Kit Yee<br/><br/>Abstract: The emerging trend of "greening" has led retailers to recognize the importance of integrating environmental management practices into their retail value chain operations. However, prior literature lacks research on the topic of Green Retailing (GR), which is largely unexplored in terms of its construct measurement, adoption, antecedents, and performance outcomes. In this study we aim to (i) establish a theoretical framework to identify the different dimensions and roles of retailers in the adoption of GR, (ii) conceptualize and empirically validate the measures of GR, (iii) identify the motives of firms to adopt GR, and (iv) examine the performance implications of GR adoption. To achieve these objectives, we carried out a study organized in three inter-related stages to obtain answers to address the research issues pertinent to GR. We first conducted an exploratory qualitative study focusing on the GR-oriented approaches and practices undertaken by world-class retailers to explore the phenomenon of GR in the retail industry. We then carried out a quantitative survey study with data collected from 141 retailers in Hong Kong to empirically validate the theoretical measures developed in this study for evaluating GR adoption and to test the hypothesized GR antecedent-adoption-performance relationships. Finally, we performed a qualitative analysis using secondary data from 375 publicly traded retailers in Japan to seek further empirical evidence in support of our findings.; Our results reveal that GR consists of three dimensions: internal-improvement based GR, external-coordination based GR, and supportive-development based GR with a total of ten practices subsumed under these dimensions. The ten practices are green store operations, green transportation, green procurement, green product design, green packaging, green promotion, green after-sales service, green policy, green research development, and green human resource development. We also find that environmental regulatory pressure, customer pressure, supplier pressure, and competitive pressure as perceived by retailers are positively associated with the extent to which GR is adopted by retailers. In addition, we obtain empirical evidence that GR adoption is positively associated with the financial and environmental performance outcomes of the retailers. The findings of this research are useful to researchers striving to come to grips with the important issues associated with GR - its phenomenon, antecedents, dimensions, and impact on firm performance. We provide managerial insights from the theoretical findings to guide practitioners on the ways to design and plan for the greening of their retail activities. This study also provides a helpful reference for policy makers, assisting them in formulating proper environmental regulations and promoting voluntary measures for environmental protection for the retail industry.<br/><br/>Description: 218 p. : ill. ; 30 cm.; PolyU Library Call No.: [THS] LG51 .H577P LMS 2012 Tang http://hdl.handle.net/10397/5715 Title: Novel surface treatment for fashion garments<br/><br/>Authors: Yuan, Guoxiang<br/><br/>Abstract: The aim of this research project is to create fashion garments which integrate aesthetic characteristics and design methods by laser engraving and machine embroidery in conjunction with computerized processes. The project consists of five parts, including: (i) a review of the techniques and application of laser engraving and machine embroidery in addition to the design process; (ii) investigation of the process from garment construction to surface treatment; (iii) verification of laser engraving and machine embroidery results on three types of fabrics and measurement of the results in the corresponding experimental work; (iv) determination of the parameters of laser engraving and machine embroidery for surface treatment; and (v) application of laser engraving, machine embroidery and design methods in the creation of fashion garments. The originality of the research lies in the realization of a fashion design concept that includes a surface treatment process, design methods and garment construction development. With the developed approach which takes into consideration the process from garment making to surface treatment, experiments conducted by using laser engraving and machine embroidery are carried out on garments made from three types of fabrics, i.e. polyester, wool/polyester blend, and rayon/polyester blend. The results of the laser engraved garments are examined and reveal that the effects are affected by two parameters; specifically, resolution (dpi) and pixel time ({471}s). In the case of machine embroidery, the design results are affected by stitch density (mm) and stitch length (mm).The physical properties, which include weight, thickness, air permeability, surface observation, thermal conductivity, electronic conductivity and color appearance, as well as the mechanical performance, which include tear strength, tensile strength, shearing, bending, compression and surface properties of the original and treated fabrics, are evaluated in accordance with international testing specifications. The project also focuses on creative design methods for integrating techniques and materials to generate innovative fashion designs. Based on a series of experimental work, the optimal parameters have been determined and applied to create diverse patterns and they are engraved or embroidered onto garments by using the two techniques, which result in unique fashion designs without any negative environmental repercussions. This project reveals the future potential of distinctive garment designs through the use of laser engraving and machine embroidery. The two techniques involve computer-aided process that would open up new possibilities for novel fashion design, and also cater to the demands for sustainable fashion and facilitate quick responses to market requirements.<br/><br/>Description: xxvi, 326 leaves : ill. ; 30 cm.; PolyU Library Call No.: [THS] LG51 .H577P ITC 2012 Yuan http://hdl.handle.net/10397/5714 Title: Development of an intelligent patternmaking system for skirt design<br/><br/>Authors: Wu, Yingying<br/><br/>Abstract: Today's customers always seek for affordable garments that are customised to their unique needs. The research on integrating advanced computer technologies with garment design for customization has attracted much attention in recent years. Many clothing related commercial software have been developed. As a crucial step in garment manufacturing, pattern making translates an abstract design idea into a tangible apparel product. Therefore, it is of paramount importance to improve the efficiency of pattern making process. However, two main obstacles are encountered. First of all, traditional patternmaking involves mainly manual operations, depending on individual operators{174} skills and experiences. There is little theory or standard about pattern making. On the other hand, the state-of-the-art 3D computer technologies are not robust and effective enough to model soft fabrics. A lot more improvements are needed for 3D patternmaking to be implemented in actual manufacturing applications. This project aims to realise intelligent patternmaking based on a theoretical model of personalised clothing fit. An intelligent skirt pattern making system is developed, which is a core module of a new computer-aided fashion design framework. The development of intelligent skirt patternmaking system includes six steps. First, an optimised skirt pattern making sequence is defined. Secondly, a system for skirt design analysis is established including a skirt classification system and a skirt style database. Thirdly, the mathematical relationship between standard design sketch and clothing patterns are established. Fourthly, a patternmaking knowledge database is developed. Fifthly, methods to quantify the fabric impacts on patternmaking are proposed. Lastly, intelligent skirt patternmaking is realised by integrating different components based on an optimised workflow. The proposed system could automatically generate clothing patterns for a ready-to-wear style of skirt in a few seconds. A two-phase experiment has been conducted to verify and evaluate the proposed system. In the first phase, the accuracy of different levels of algorithms was verified separately. Later on, more complete styles containing three levels of design elements were used to test system effective pattern generation. Samples made based on generated patterns, the garments were trial fit on a standard mannequin and by a young lady who has similar body measurements as that of the mannequin. The experimental results show that the intelligent skirt patternmaking system could automatically generate well fitted patterns for customized designs. To conclude, the patternmaking model proposed in this study contributes the fashion industry in improving efficiency and effectiveness of product development and pattern making. It can be used for realising ready-to-wear fashion product customization.<br/><br/>Description: xiv, 172 p. : ill. ; 30 cm.; PolyU Library Call No.: [THS] LG51 .H577M ITC 2012 Wu http://hdl.handle.net/10397/5713 Title: Study on stimulus-responsive cellulose-based polymeric materials<br/><br/>Authors: Luo, Hongsheng<br/><br/>Abstract: Cellulose is the most abundant natural polymeric material and has been widely used by human beings for several thousands of years. Exploration of novel and new materials based on the "old" material is of great academic and industrial significance. This thesis presents the first attempt to explore stimulus-responsive polymeric materials based on the natural cellulose by physical and chemical approaches, namely polymeric nano-composites, blending/semi-interpenetrating network and chemical modification. The thermal, structural, mechanical and morphologic properties of the samples were comprehensively investigated by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), Wide angle X-ray Diffraction (WXRD), Dynamic Mechanical Analysis (DMA), tensile tests, Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) and so on. Two categories, five types of stimulus-responsive polymeric materials were exploited based on the natural cellulose. Water-sensitive shape memory effect (SME), programming-structure-property relationship and underling mechanisms were emphasized in this study. Some new concepts, such as heterogeneous-twin-switch, path-dependent multi-shape, rapidly switchable water-sensitive SME were established. For the first category, cellulose nano-whiskers (CNWs) were incorporated into crystalline shape memory polyurethane (SMPU) and thermal plastic polyurethane (TPU). The CNW-SMPU nano-composites had heterogeneous twin switches, i.e. the thermo-sensitive switch due to the PCL crystals and the water-sensitive switch due to the percolating cellulose network (PCN). The water-sensitive switch was further hypothesized to divide into the shielded and the naked parts. Triple-and multi-shape effects were achieved for the CNW-SMPU nano-composites by applying into appropriate thermal-aqueous-mechanical programming. When the composites were in the dry state, the thermally triggered shape recovery was tuneable according to the PCN content. Furthermore, theoretical prediction along with numerical analysis was conducted, providing evidence on the proposed microstructure of the CNW-SMPU nano-composites. The CNW-TPU nano-composites were found to possess rapidly switchable water-sensitive SME due to the PCN whose hydrogen bonding was able to be reversibly regulated by water. A novel mechanism model was established based upon systematic investigation of the composites in terms of the morphological, thermal, structural and mechanical properties.; The explored stimulus-responsive cellulose-based polymers in the second category consisted of cellulose-polyurethane (PU) blends, cellulose-poly(acrylic acid) (PAA) composites and modified cellulose with supramolecular switches, featuring the requirement of homogeneous cellulose solution in the synthesis process. The reversible behaviours of the cellulose-PU blends in wet-dry cycles as well as the underlying shape memory mechanism were characterized and disclosed. The micro-patterns of the blends were found to be self-similar and have fractal dimensions. As for the cellulose-PAA semi-interpenetrating networks, the emphasis was put on the mechanical adaptability in wet-dry cycles. A thermally reversible quadruple hydrogen bonding unit, ureidopyrimidinone (UPy), was used to react with the cellulose as pendent side-groups, which may impart the modified cellulose with thermal sensitivity. The findings in this project are beneficial for extending the potential application of cellulose in smart materials field. Moreover, it contributes to the development of shape memory polymers. The combination of multiple disciplines in this study also benefits the applications of nanotechnology and supramolecular chemistry in materials field.<br/><br/>Description: xxvi, 224 p. : ill. ; 30 cm.; PolyU Library Call No.: [THS] LG51 .H577P ITC 2012 Luo